Yesterday afternoon was spent driving around the Willamette Valley stopping at several wineries. By the end of the day I was worn out and uninterested in trying another Pinot Noir. What kept me going through the day though was some unexpected wines that showed both the growing diversity of the wines here, and the willingness to experiment and take commercial risk on the part of wineries.
Some wines I knew about, but was taken aback by their quality and interest. Adelsheim, and Oregon wine pioneer, who is celebrating their 40th Anniversary this year, is producing on their estate one of the best Oregon Syrahs I've had. The nose was meaty and spicy, but not overwhelming, with a real juicy palate and clean finish. I was happy to see an Oregon Syrah that was approachable but also complex and balanced.
Another Oregon pioneer, Erath, now owned by Chateau Ste. Michelle, is producing a white Pinot Noir. This seems to be the latest trend; thought they were not pouring it in their tasting room while I was there, I knew that Anne Amie was also making a white Pinot Noir. This is a total geek wine - a full and rich white with great fruit and zippy finish.
Anne Amie's lineup is impressive beyond their white Pinot Noir. Their Riesling is coming from well established vines, and has a intense nose. I'm so glad to see this variety gain traction here, with several producers offering great examples including Brooks and Tristaetum. What was really surprising at Anne Amie was their set of "Stickies", a pair of desert wines made from Muller-Thurgau. The two wines are made in different styles, a late harvest sweet wine full of orange marmalade, and a fortified oxidized wine with nutty honey aromas. Both are great and unconventional wines.
My hat's off to those producers pushing the envelope. I look forward to finding more jems.
April 20, 2011
April 11, 2011
Thoughts For April
I've been busy lately. Its been a busy month of April. Good things have come to pass, and I've been thinking about writing about some of them. Most importantly in my life thought is that I've come to the end of my job search. My job search was a great deal of the reason I was so busy. The "season" in wine country is gathering momentum, and I've been fortunate enough to find work at a terrific winery (I will leave it up to you to find out which - you probably wont hear me write about it here). I've also been running around trying to find an affordable car that gets good milage, which is also an epic task. Hopefully the next few weeks will be calmer than the past few. And I can focus more on writing.
Still, I have not been totally ignoring writing. Randall Grahm posted a transcript of a speech he delivered about terroir. It was very thought provoking, and got me motivated to put together my own thoughts about the subject from my architecturally trained perspective. I hope to be posting something soon.
March 28, 2011
9 Spanish Wines with New Wine Club, Part 3
I love the wines of Rioja because they offer a great diversity of styles, based primarily on one grape: Tempranillo. Though some of the young, or joven, wines are made from Garnacha, the one I selected was 100% Tempranillo. These are the wines being poured in Tapas bars for 75¢ a glass; bright, fruity and usually lively with acidity. Much of what I cam across I the cafés and bars while in Spain were these joven wines, but the reputation of Rioja is built on the quality and character of Crianzas or Reservas, and the grand-daddy wine of them all are the Gran Reservas. What makes these so special is the long aging period both in oak barrels and in bottles. Indeed, what makes Spain such an interesting wine producing country is the tradition of long aging of wines before release, and Rioja, as a DOCa, has more stringent aging requirements than the rest of Spain.
Unfortunately, there has been a shift in style with some houses in Rioja. Complaints have been issued that producers are pandering to critics and internationals tastes, instead of making more traditional styles. Catavino recently wrote a lament to the change in tone of Reservas. I avoided this mine-field by choosing a wine from a benchmark producer - the oldest continuous producer in Haro - known for exceptional wines. I am always surprised that wines like these, showing impressive secondary and tertiary characteristics due to aging on the part of these producers, sell for less than $20.Imagine for a moment if Bordeaux, instead of selling their wine before its even done, would hold their wines back, age them in bottle until after the wines mellow and drop their rip-your-face-off tannins. Imagine further if they didn't sell for rip-you-off prices. Lets hope that the love for Tempranillo does not corrupt the long held practices of Spanish bodegas in to the insanity of Bordeaux.
The final bottle of Tempranillo came from Ribera Del Duero. The Duero river flows into Portugal, where its known as the Douro and boasts a hot climate to make Port. But while in Spain, the banks of the Duero are more moderate and can be challenging due to their altitude. Still, some of the greatest wines in Spain, Vega Secilia among them, hail from here. Riper fruit and stronger tannins prevail in these wines which show us the brawny side of the grape. I had to grab my decanter and try to wake this wine up, but I suspect that it could have used another 5 years of sleeping in the bottle.
(+) Mencos, Rioja Joven 2008 $16.50
Straightforward, fruity with a touch of pepper and spice. A classic youthful wine for quaffing and conversation at a boisterous bar. Worth picking up a couple of bottles for a fun evening with friends. Available at Cork, imported by De Maison Selections.
Straightforward, fruity with a touch of pepper and spice. A classic youthful wine for quaffing and conversation at a boisterous bar. Worth picking up a couple of bottles for a fun evening with friends. Available at Cork, imported by De Maison Selections.
(++) Marqués de Riscal, Rioja Riserva 2005 $18
A true benchmark Rioja. 5+ years aging shows on the nose with some blue cheese funk, but beautiful soft fruit underlying it all. Amazing value at under $20, and a chance to see what patience can do for tannins - why don't more people by old Rioja instead of cabernets? Available at Liner & Elsen and Fred Meyer, Imported by Shaw-Ross International
(+) Torrederos, Ribera Del Duero Reserva 2004 $29
(+) Torrederos, Ribera Del Duero Reserva 2004 $29
The most obvious contrast between this wine and the Riscal is the structure - this wine is loaded with tannins, and more expressive fruit. Could have used more time in the decanter, or in the bottle. A big wine for sure with a dark fruit and present oak - use with meat! Available at Storyteller Wines, imported by Estelle Imports.
March 16, 2011
#WBW71 - South African Memories & a Jumilla Monastrell
I've long had a love of Mouvèdre. In my house, growing up, Rhone wines were king. Just get my Dad started and he'll swoon over Vacqueyras or Gigondas, and of course he has a soft spot for Bandol, France's home of Mouvèdre. So, along with my fathers good looks, I inherited a love of these rich, complex, heady wines.
The wine that got me hooked on Mouvèdre though, was a varietal bottling from Spice Route of South Africa. Several years ago, while I was living in Cape Town, my parents came to visit over Christmas. We took them out to the winelands near Stellenbosch and Paarl, and stopped into the regions most widely known estate, Fairview - responsible for Goats do Roam, and a leading producer of not just wine, but goat cheese in South Africa. Fairview Winery owns several different labels, producing wines in diverse regions from Hermanus to Swartland.
The Spice Route Mourvèdre hailed from the latter, and was the last wine we tried that day, after a line up of Pinotage, Cabernets and Chenin Blancs; it was the one that stood out, and the one we walked away with. What was appealing about it was its meaty, sweaty, dark and seductive core that jumped out and grabbed you. But it was packaged in a svelte and balance body. The taste resonated with the spicy borewors sauasage that is a mainstay of the South African braai. I know that Pinotage is the country's claim to the wine world, but Mourvèdre seemed to resonate more with the diverse, rich and spicy food and Mediterranean climate of Cape Town.
A few years after that, as I was searching for interesting Mourvèdre in the Vancouver, B.C. market, it was revealed to me that Spain also produced Mourvèdre. In fact, it was home to it, only there named Monastrell. I stored this information away, knowing if I couldn't find any Bandol, or re-live my Cape Town days, I could always look towards Spain. So when I recently had the idea for a Spanish themed tasting (here and here), I was eager to share at least one Monastrell with the group.
Gladly, I came across the Juan Gil 2007 Monastrell from Jumilla at a local shop, Vino, just in time to share it with the group. Jumilla is in the Murcia region of south-eastern Spain (for beautiful video and insight into the region, check the videos produced by Grape Radio), and this wine comes from 40 year old vines. That familiar rich, seductive array of aromas pulled me in to the glass, full of red and dark fruit, spice and meat. You can taste the Spanish sun, and rocky earth in the full body; This wine is definitely powerful, at 15% ABV, but carries its weight gracefully. This wine was a big hit with the group, as proved by the empty bottle test. And just as the Spice Route Mourvèdre would pair beautifully with Borewors or a Potjie, so to would this Monastrell pair with the grilled pork chops and grilled garlicy-mushrooms I had in Spain.
The wine that got me hooked on Mouvèdre though, was a varietal bottling from Spice Route of South Africa. Several years ago, while I was living in Cape Town, my parents came to visit over Christmas. We took them out to the winelands near Stellenbosch and Paarl, and stopped into the regions most widely known estate, Fairview - responsible for Goats do Roam, and a leading producer of not just wine, but goat cheese in South Africa. Fairview Winery owns several different labels, producing wines in diverse regions from Hermanus to Swartland.
A few years after that, as I was searching for interesting Mourvèdre in the Vancouver, B.C. market, it was revealed to me that Spain also produced Mourvèdre. In fact, it was home to it, only there named Monastrell. I stored this information away, knowing if I couldn't find any Bandol, or re-live my Cape Town days, I could always look towards Spain. So when I recently had the idea for a Spanish themed tasting (here and here), I was eager to share at least one Monastrell with the group.
9 Spanish Wines with New Wine Club, Part 2
I was happy to see this weeks NYTimes column focus on the remarkable wines of Priorat, one of the great wine regions in Spain. I was sad, however that none of the wines we tasted last friday were from Priorat. But we did taste some awesome wines from Rias Baixas and Bierzo - two of my favorite regions in Spain.
One of my favorite challenges is to get people who claim they like only red wines to drink, and like, if not love, a white wine. Sometimes it a tough game, especially for someone who has such mixed feelings about one of the great white grapes: chardonnay. Well, Spain has relatively few white wines out there, aside from cava, and they can be hard to track down here in Portland. I was certain thought to find a good Rias Baixas and share the pleasures of Albariño with the group.
What I came up with was the unique Do Ferreiro Rebisaca, a blend of 75% Albariño and 25% Treixadura and aged on lees for 9 months. Not the typical Rias Baixas, but a nervy, vibrant wine that got the point across; Albariño can be a complex and interesting white, and has earned its reputation one of the greatest seafood wines. This wine may not have convinced everybody of the pleasures of white, but it turned some heads and brought back memories of fresh seafood dinners in Europe.
Next up was a pair of 2008 Bierzos, both 100% Mencía. The first, La Mano, was a rather simple, light bodied expression reminiscent of the red table wines common along the Camino. In contrast, the Pétalos from J. Palacios, was richer, more complex and ended up being one of the favorites of the evening. The contrast of these two wines was clear when tasting them side by side.
(+) Do Ferreiro Rebisaca, Rias Baixas DO 2007 $20
Bright and crisp with lots of lime peel, touch of melon and mineral character on the nose. This wine seemed to have the weight to handle a variety of food, but the general conversation leaned towards seafood. Refreshing with a medium finish. Available from Storyteller Wines, imported by De Maison Selection.
(-) La Mano Mencía Roble, Bierzo DO 2008 $10.50
A straightforward wine that showed the basic profile of Mencía; red fruit, bramble and herbal notes followed with good acidity, rough but light tannins, and light alcohol. Not a bad red table wine for lighter meals, hot summer nights, or days of walking 30 km, but nothing to get excited about either. Available from Great Wine Buys, imported by Axial wines.
(++) Descendientes de J. Palacios, Pétalos Bierzo DO 2008 $23
Perhaps the most interesting find of the night for me. This wine comes from old vines (40-90 years) with very low yields, then spends some time in French oak barrels. I loved the full expression of Mencía with ripe brambly raspberry, blueberry pie, complex herbal notes and baking spice. The tannins were refined like a nice black tea, and balanced with the crisp acidity. Not quite full bodied with a long finish. Although this is Palacios entry level Mencía, it shows what this grape is capable of, and is very much worth picking up. Available at Cork and New Seasons, imported by Rare Wine Co.
Although this post is a week late to be included, its worth checking out the Wine Blogging Wednesday roundup of posts on Spainish wines, and the awesome map produced.
What I came up with was the unique Do Ferreiro Rebisaca, a blend of 75% Albariño and 25% Treixadura and aged on lees for 9 months. Not the typical Rias Baixas, but a nervy, vibrant wine that got the point across; Albariño can be a complex and interesting white, and has earned its reputation one of the greatest seafood wines. This wine may not have convinced everybody of the pleasures of white, but it turned some heads and brought back memories of fresh seafood dinners in Europe.
Next up was a pair of 2008 Bierzos, both 100% Mencía. The first, La Mano, was a rather simple, light bodied expression reminiscent of the red table wines common along the Camino. In contrast, the Pétalos from J. Palacios, was richer, more complex and ended up being one of the favorites of the evening. The contrast of these two wines was clear when tasting them side by side.
(+) Do Ferreiro Rebisaca, Rias Baixas DO 2007 $20
Bright and crisp with lots of lime peel, touch of melon and mineral character on the nose. This wine seemed to have the weight to handle a variety of food, but the general conversation leaned towards seafood. Refreshing with a medium finish. Available from Storyteller Wines, imported by De Maison Selection.
(-) La Mano Mencía Roble, Bierzo DO 2008 $10.50A straightforward wine that showed the basic profile of Mencía; red fruit, bramble and herbal notes followed with good acidity, rough but light tannins, and light alcohol. Not a bad red table wine for lighter meals, hot summer nights, or days of walking 30 km, but nothing to get excited about either. Available from Great Wine Buys, imported by Axial wines.
(++) Descendientes de J. Palacios, Pétalos Bierzo DO 2008 $23
Perhaps the most interesting find of the night for me. This wine comes from old vines (40-90 years) with very low yields, then spends some time in French oak barrels. I loved the full expression of Mencía with ripe brambly raspberry, blueberry pie, complex herbal notes and baking spice. The tannins were refined like a nice black tea, and balanced with the crisp acidity. Not quite full bodied with a long finish. Although this is Palacios entry level Mencía, it shows what this grape is capable of, and is very much worth picking up. Available at Cork and New Seasons, imported by Rare Wine Co.
Although this post is a week late to be included, its worth checking out the Wine Blogging Wednesday roundup of posts on Spainish wines, and the awesome map produced.
March 13, 2011
9 Spanish Wines with New Wine Club, Part 1
Friday marked the inaugural meeting of my new tasting group here in Portland. I was really excited to see everybody who showed up and share a great set of Spanish wine that I put together over the past month. The attendees, as a whole, were no strangers to wine, but we did go over a bit about tasting, what to look for in wine and how to differentiate between elements, as well as an overview of Spain. Overall, I was really impressed with the group for their comments on the wine as well as the interesting questions they had about Spain and wine in general.
In addition to the line up of wines, I put together a few typical Spanish snacks: Tortilla Española, Manchego and Patacabra cheeses with Membrillo and olives from Whole Foods, and Chorizo from Olympia Provisions, and some homemade bread.Below are my tasting notes from the first two wines we tasted; two Cavas. Perhaps it wasn't fair of me to start with sparkling wines, since I find them hard to analyze in part due to their bubbles. Still, everybody loves sparkling wines, and cava is one of the best thing that Spain has going for it. I picked each wine for different reasons. The first wine is ubiquitous here in Portland; I've seen it in Whole Foods, New Seasons, and Vino, and I'm sure a few other places are carrying it. It represents a straightforward, inexpensive cava. The other, bought at Liner & Elsen, was designed to show that cava is also a serious sparkling wine, with the ability to challenge Champagne. Well, hat didn't happen - although it was different and good, I wont be running out to buy it again. In fact, most people preferred the first wine in our side by side tasting. I had to admit, when I revealed the prices, that I was a bit let down by the second wine.
I'll be posting more notes from the rest of the tasting in the coming days, but here's the first set.
Niether cava tasted got me really excited, but I will say that this one showed extremely well for a $9 sparkling wine. Given sparkling wine's image of a celebratory drink, you could be celebrating for a long time and with a large crowd by stocking a few cases of this. What I did like about this, aside from its hit you-in-the-face value, is that it's a very clean expression of creamy citrus and yeasty. Its 100% Macabeo, and thought its crisp, it is also balanced in body. Available at Whole Foods, New Seasons, Vino; imported by Casa Bruno
(-) J. Esteve Nadal Avinyo, Reserva Brut Cava $16
I give this Cava a pass. Its a very nice wine, with a soft round character, more fruit expression than yeast and bread. In fact, I preferred it to the other, but I was let down a little, thinking that a Reserva Cava would deliver a little more punch. This blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada seemed a little flat. Peril of tasting side by side and not stand alone? Perhaps. Or maybe its just that I've been tasting lots of sparkling wine at this price point recently that are more memorable. Available at Liner & Elsen, Imported by De Maison Selections.
March 7, 2011
Rosé Not-Champagne
I celebrated my 21st birthday while living abroad in France. Since I was able to drink anyway, getting drunk was not a priority. Instead, my host family generously hosted a dinner for me and some friends. I knew by then the pleasures of both Champagne and rosé wine, but thanks to my hosts I learned the glories of Rosé Champagne. The lightness of the fruit and the complexity of the secondary fermentation are pleasure I still remember, if not the name of the producer.
Alas, so many times since then I have been disappointed with rosé sparkling wines. It seems rare to find one that offers a balance between fruit and verve, like homemade jam on fresh bread. More often they are insipid and uninspired. I asked my WSET instructor after a very disappointing example of Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut why so many rosé Champagne sucked. His answer said that it had more to do with Champagne houses and their wine making philosophy then the style of wine. Consider this: Champagne houses make a lot of wine. Oceans! And the majority of it is non-vintage. What distinguishes one Champagne from another is not the specific vineyards it comes from (thought in rare cases this can be spot-lighted) or the vintage, but the brand and stylistic choices that brand makes to differentiates its wine. Thus the majority of Champagne is looked at as a commodity, much like grain or beef is here in America. Consistency and image are of prime importance because these are what ensure brand loyalty. So, if you have to churn out millions of bottles of sparkling rosé year after year, you need it to look, smell and taste the same more or less. Its not hard to see how this pushes towards the lowest common denominator. A brand focusing on their image might be more concerned with achieving consistent color in their wine then complexity and interesting aromas. After all, the image of champagne is one of partying, celebrating life's big moments, falling in love all over again - who's going to complain about the wine when their in love!?! Who's going to complain about a wine when the cost of entry to this club is so high. Not me! I don't want to be wet blanket who is then accused of being a wine snob. No, I'd rather sip the lackluster wine and shout Congratulations in spite of it. But this, in my opinion, is the major failing of Champagne: they have built a brand image that has nothing to do with the quality or interest of their wines, and everything to do with lifestyle and artifice. Sure, they make some pretty tasty juice there, but apart from superlative examples like Grand Cru or vintage wines, there seems to be little discussion about the quality of these wines. The exciting talk around Champagne these days revolves around Grower Champagne, which strive to high-light terroir. And these small time producers are gaining ground, thanks to importers like Terry Theise who champion the underdogs. Every year there is more variety on the shelves.
But that not what this is about. This is about the joys of Rosé Champagne, or rather Rosé Not-Champagne. Thankfully Champagne does not hold a monopoly on rosé sparkling wines. All over France there are great sparkling wines, like Crémant de Loire and Crémant de Limoux. But it is in Alsace, where a small amount of Pinot Noir is planted, that Lucien Albrecht makes some fantastic Rosé Crémant d'Alsace. My wife brought home this bottle as a Valentines Day treat. Having already made other plans, we left the bottle in the fridge for another occasion. I decided to open it the other day to serve with saurkraut and chicken sausages. It had enough stuffing to go up against the food, an acidity that paired well with the saurkraut and just a touch of sweetness to lift the fruit and bring out the charm from the apples in the sausage. Here's the review:
(++) Lucien Albrecht Rosé Brut Crémant d'Alsace NV ($25)
Opened beautifully on the nose with strawberry and red current, complimented by lemon curd, yeast and fresh bread aromas. Bright and mouth-filling body with a pleasant long finish. 100% Pinot Noir. Highly recommended.
Alas, so many times since then I have been disappointed with rosé sparkling wines. It seems rare to find one that offers a balance between fruit and verve, like homemade jam on fresh bread. More often they are insipid and uninspired. I asked my WSET instructor after a very disappointing example of Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut why so many rosé Champagne sucked. His answer said that it had more to do with Champagne houses and their wine making philosophy then the style of wine. Consider this: Champagne houses make a lot of wine. Oceans! And the majority of it is non-vintage. What distinguishes one Champagne from another is not the specific vineyards it comes from (thought in rare cases this can be spot-lighted) or the vintage, but the brand and stylistic choices that brand makes to differentiates its wine. Thus the majority of Champagne is looked at as a commodity, much like grain or beef is here in America. Consistency and image are of prime importance because these are what ensure brand loyalty. So, if you have to churn out millions of bottles of sparkling rosé year after year, you need it to look, smell and taste the same more or less. Its not hard to see how this pushes towards the lowest common denominator. A brand focusing on their image might be more concerned with achieving consistent color in their wine then complexity and interesting aromas. After all, the image of champagne is one of partying, celebrating life's big moments, falling in love all over again - who's going to complain about the wine when their in love!?! Who's going to complain about a wine when the cost of entry to this club is so high. Not me! I don't want to be wet blanket who is then accused of being a wine snob. No, I'd rather sip the lackluster wine and shout Congratulations in spite of it. But this, in my opinion, is the major failing of Champagne: they have built a brand image that has nothing to do with the quality or interest of their wines, and everything to do with lifestyle and artifice. Sure, they make some pretty tasty juice there, but apart from superlative examples like Grand Cru or vintage wines, there seems to be little discussion about the quality of these wines. The exciting talk around Champagne these days revolves around Grower Champagne, which strive to high-light terroir. And these small time producers are gaining ground, thanks to importers like Terry Theise who champion the underdogs. Every year there is more variety on the shelves.But that not what this is about. This is about the joys of Rosé Champagne, or rather Rosé Not-Champagne. Thankfully Champagne does not hold a monopoly on rosé sparkling wines. All over France there are great sparkling wines, like Crémant de Loire and Crémant de Limoux. But it is in Alsace, where a small amount of Pinot Noir is planted, that Lucien Albrecht makes some fantastic Rosé Crémant d'Alsace. My wife brought home this bottle as a Valentines Day treat. Having already made other plans, we left the bottle in the fridge for another occasion. I decided to open it the other day to serve with saurkraut and chicken sausages. It had enough stuffing to go up against the food, an acidity that paired well with the saurkraut and just a touch of sweetness to lift the fruit and bring out the charm from the apples in the sausage. Here's the review:
(++) Lucien Albrecht Rosé Brut Crémant d'Alsace NV ($25)Opened beautifully on the nose with strawberry and red current, complimented by lemon curd, yeast and fresh bread aromas. Bright and mouth-filling body with a pleasant long finish. 100% Pinot Noir. Highly recommended.
February 28, 2011
What do you blind taste?
From my experience in the WSET courses, I've done plenty of blind tasting. Generally, a region or style would be presented, then two or three wines would be poured for comparison. Information about the specific region/appellation, varieties, producer, or price was not revealed until an assessment was made. This is done, according to the curriculum, to train objective evaluation techniques - to get us to think about what we are tasting it and develop a logical analysis to arrive at a conclusion with out being influenced by externals or irrelevant factors. And hopefully it leads to useful notes about a wine's structure and the experience of tasting it, and not to more wine bullshit. This idea is pretty much standard industry practice, but the blind tasting has also taken on an almost mythical quality. Stories abound about sommeliers identifying obscure wines precisely down to the smallest detail. My feelings on this? Sure, thats a nifty trick - you do have to be very experienced to pull it off. But what purpose does it serve? Anybody who can read could tell you about a wine by looking at the bottle. Even many sommeliers will dismiss this as nothing more than a parlor trick. The real skill lies in evaluating a wine's characteristics and pairing the wine and food to best reveal the character of each, not in identifying its vintage and origin. Beyond this, wine is meant to be enjoyed.
There is value in having information upfront when tasting. I find it helpful to know what to expect so that I can recall previous tasting experiences and benchmarks to help me judge a wine. I admit that I have fallen victim to the influence of price or a label, but blind tasting leaves the subject of wine cold and dead, and a lot less enjoyable. The anticipation and story of a wine are also part of the wine's allure and enjoyment. Furthermore, the producers name or the price are not the only elements that can mislead a taster. For one, context is highly relevant; how many wines, and what kinds are you tasting before or after. What about color? Yes, color can sometimes tell us about a wine (bricking, or browning from oxidation), but can also be manipulated through the use of grape juice concentrates. And color is not an indicator of intensity of flavors - intensity of flavors are measured with the nose and palate, not the eyes.
So, what to do about the tasting club? Well, the goal of the group is to expand peoples wine sphere's and help develop their wine knowledge. I don't really care if they can identify a wine blind, or even evaluate a wine's structure, because group is not for wine professional. They simply want to know more and try things that they might not on their own. And I believe that they can judge for themselves whether a wine is worth its price. Anyone can, if they stop for a moment to reflect, can tell you if they like something or not, and what it might be worth to them. But here is the bottom line for me, when most of us drink wine, we know what we are drinking. We've selected them, or our host has told us about the wine. We anticipate the wine, we offer up our enthusiasm or share in our hosts excitement. Even as part of a tasting group, shouldn't we all get more excited about wine?
There is value in having information upfront when tasting. I find it helpful to know what to expect so that I can recall previous tasting experiences and benchmarks to help me judge a wine. I admit that I have fallen victim to the influence of price or a label, but blind tasting leaves the subject of wine cold and dead, and a lot less enjoyable. The anticipation and story of a wine are also part of the wine's allure and enjoyment. Furthermore, the producers name or the price are not the only elements that can mislead a taster. For one, context is highly relevant; how many wines, and what kinds are you tasting before or after. What about color? Yes, color can sometimes tell us about a wine (bricking, or browning from oxidation), but can also be manipulated through the use of grape juice concentrates. And color is not an indicator of intensity of flavors - intensity of flavors are measured with the nose and palate, not the eyes.
So, what to do about the tasting club? Well, the goal of the group is to expand peoples wine sphere's and help develop their wine knowledge. I don't really care if they can identify a wine blind, or even evaluate a wine's structure, because group is not for wine professional. They simply want to know more and try things that they might not on their own. And I believe that they can judge for themselves whether a wine is worth its price. Anyone can, if they stop for a moment to reflect, can tell you if they like something or not, and what it might be worth to them. But here is the bottom line for me, when most of us drink wine, we know what we are drinking. We've selected them, or our host has told us about the wine. We anticipate the wine, we offer up our enthusiasm or share in our hosts excitement. Even as part of a tasting group, shouldn't we all get more excited about wine?
February 27, 2011
Friday Tasting at Storyteller Wines - Dueling 1985's
On Friday I had the wonderful chance to catch a unique tasting at Storyteller Wine. Owner Michael Alberty poured five diverse wine as part of his normal tasting, but also brought out two special bottles just for fun, both of 1985 vintage: Stag's Leap Wine Cellar Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou St. Julien Second Growth. Here's a run down of the tasting.
(+) Jean Marc Chardonnay 2009 $20
A chardonnay with just enough for me to recommend. I've talked before about my apathy towards this grape, but I may be coming around. This wine was certainly interesting enough and in balance. Mellow medium body, with restrained use of oak, sadly the acid trailed off at the back end. Good porch sipper.
(-) Apolloni Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2008 $24
All hail the 2008 Oregon Pinots? Well, maybe not all of them. This particular bottle was too forward with the oak, vanilla, & baking spice, that eventually gave way to some dark fruit. A balanced body with fine grained tannins, though still young. To me, not terribly interesting, but it could be all the hype that let me down.
(+) Felsina Chianti Classico 2008 $2
I reviewed the 2007 a few weeks back...or was I mistaken, and mislabeled it in my notes. In any manner, Felsina was consistant. The pressed flower scent set me onto the topic of old photo albums with yellowing film coverings. Still a Sangiovese classic in my opinion.
(++) Domaine Cabirau Côte du Roussillon 2009 $20
A blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan. Delicious, and appealing right off the bat. Herbal and meaty with intense nose, but ripe (not cooked) fruit character in there as well. Full bodied and soft tannins from the high Grenache content. Rich and warming for the cold weather we've been having.
(+) Matello Fool's Journey Willamette Valley Syrah 2008 $28
One of the bottles that we walked away with. Made from 87% Syrah, and 13% Viognier, cofermented, this wine was decanted three days prior, and was still very upright. A clear sharp cedar and black pepper attack on the nose with dark fruit on the palate and the tannin structure very much in place. Clean long finish. Could it have opened up more? Maybe we'll see when we open ours at home.
As we were getting to the stars of the show, those present started talking about the events going on in 1985. Talk of Regan and Michael Jackson. I always find it interesting when old wine is opened how it inspires this kind of talk. The presence of old wine is like a key to a time capsule, one that opens up the hidden events in our memories that we have stored away.
(++) Stag's Leap Wine Cellar Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
This wine was vibrantly fresh, even after 25 years! Beautiful red cherry and sweet blackcurrent (more like crème de cassis), but most of all, that lovely smooth structure that comes from well aged Cabernet tannins. Excellent balance with a long finish. A very exciting wine, and my favorite of the evening. I was especially pleased to try this wine and see what Napa had made of itself after a couple of decades of experience, but before the rock-star winemaker era. Stag's Leap Wine Cellar's reputation is well earned, and this vintage shows why.
(+) Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St. Julien 1985 $135
I will admit upfront that I am not familiar with the St. Julien appellation other then it being on the Left Bank. My "mouth-on" experience with these wines is nil, so I did not know what to expect. All I had to go on was my experience with other Left Bank wines - mostly Médocs or Haut-Médoc.
The color was a beautiful pale red with lots of bricking apparent at the edges. Nose reminiscent of camomile tea with a menthol under-current and earth character, in contrast to the Stag's Leap fruit. I couldn't get the picture of stones out of my head - was it the scent of graphite or the fact that the château's name means "beautiful rocks"? Medium bodied with silky, evolved tannins and very long finish.
February 23, 2011
Tasting notes...again
It's hard to get tired of debating the topic of tasting notes. Seemingly, the more people bring up the topic of a new approach to describing a wine, the more the critics using the 100 point system and flowery (Quixotic?) terms seem to persist in presenting an understanding of wine as out of reach and complex. Even Gary Vaynerchuk, who claims to be "Changing the wine world," falls into the trap of using a long string of descriptors and scoring wines. That's not change I can believe in. (For a comparison of scoring systems, check out this great graphic, by De Long Wine Discovery Tools.)
In contrast to the prevailing notion in most wine media, Eric Asimov just proposed a binary system of describing wine; sweet or savory. I completely agree that tasting notes should be simpler, but he has taken it too far. There's no doubt that proponents of scoring systems (100 points or otherwise) see their way of measuring a wines merits as simple and un-intimidating to the consumer - yet they do nothing to tell us about the experience of the wine, or its place in the world. And neither does Asimov's two choices, which are loaded with potential for misunderstanding.
There is the issue of why one would want to write a tasting note. In response to Asimov's column, Alder Yarrow wrote up this reminder of what tasting notes are good for. The list focuses on information being conveyed from wine writers to consumers. But lets not forget that tasting notes are also written by wine consumers for themselves as a tool to remember wines they have drunk. In this case, my advice is to write what suits you and makes the most sense of your experience.
Personally, I would rather see tasting notes that showed restraint when using descriptors (a la Broadbent), but conveyed what I think are the two most important aspects of a wine: its structure, and its typicity. Why these two elements? A description of a wines structure can convey how a wine is made, what it feels like in the mouth, if it is balanced or not, if it should be paired with food and what sort of food, and its ability to age. Also, a wines structure, though it evolves, is more permanent than any flavor. A wine out of balance cannot evolve into a balanced one. As for typicity and style, I believe its important to say whether a wine reflects its place of origin, or fits a style. Humans use broad categories to describe all sorts of things, why not wine? Furthermore, wine writers tend to make such a big deal of terroir, and seek out true vins de terroir. Why then don't we use this in tasting notes, and in this way educate consumers by pointing out useful benchmarks in a given category. Perhaps instead of trying to dumb down the discussion with reductionist descriptions, we should move the discussion towards expanding our understanding of the diversity of wine and where it comes from.
In contrast to the prevailing notion in most wine media, Eric Asimov just proposed a binary system of describing wine; sweet or savory. I completely agree that tasting notes should be simpler, but he has taken it too far. There's no doubt that proponents of scoring systems (100 points or otherwise) see their way of measuring a wines merits as simple and un-intimidating to the consumer - yet they do nothing to tell us about the experience of the wine, or its place in the world. And neither does Asimov's two choices, which are loaded with potential for misunderstanding.
There is the issue of why one would want to write a tasting note. In response to Asimov's column, Alder Yarrow wrote up this reminder of what tasting notes are good for. The list focuses on information being conveyed from wine writers to consumers. But lets not forget that tasting notes are also written by wine consumers for themselves as a tool to remember wines they have drunk. In this case, my advice is to write what suits you and makes the most sense of your experience.
Personally, I would rather see tasting notes that showed restraint when using descriptors (a la Broadbent), but conveyed what I think are the two most important aspects of a wine: its structure, and its typicity. Why these two elements? A description of a wines structure can convey how a wine is made, what it feels like in the mouth, if it is balanced or not, if it should be paired with food and what sort of food, and its ability to age. Also, a wines structure, though it evolves, is more permanent than any flavor. A wine out of balance cannot evolve into a balanced one. As for typicity and style, I believe its important to say whether a wine reflects its place of origin, or fits a style. Humans use broad categories to describe all sorts of things, why not wine? Furthermore, wine writers tend to make such a big deal of terroir, and seek out true vins de terroir. Why then don't we use this in tasting notes, and in this way educate consumers by pointing out useful benchmarks in a given category. Perhaps instead of trying to dumb down the discussion with reductionist descriptions, we should move the discussion towards expanding our understanding of the diversity of wine and where it comes from.
February 18, 2011
What the hell is Cassis?
I won't mention where, but I once sat down in a tasting room ready to taste a beautiful Napa Cabernet. After forming my own impressions I glanced over the tasting notes that were provided (apparently for my amusement). I joke you not, it read "Blackcurrent, Cassis". They were literally side by side (and yes, I mean literally).
Speaking French, I know that cassis is what the French call black currents. I was astounded that the marketing team would be so stupid as to provide two terms, identical in meaning, one after the other. I dismissed it as an oversight, and moved on with my life...
Until I ran across this factoid: until 1966 it was illegal to grow black currents in the US, and not until 2003 was the ban lifted in states like Nw York and Oregon, all due to a disease associated with the plant.
Thanks to De Long Wine Moment for their post on the tasting term. They go on to discuss that Americans tend to use the term "Cassis", because the US's exposure to the flavor of black current was primarily from Crème de Cassis. The British, on the other hand, use the term "Black Current" being familiar with widely available black current juice.
Perhaps the afore mentioned Napa winery was trying to appeal to a broader set of tourists. My suggestions? Try this "Black Current/Cassis"
Speaking French, I know that cassis is what the French call black currents. I was astounded that the marketing team would be so stupid as to provide two terms, identical in meaning, one after the other. I dismissed it as an oversight, and moved on with my life...
Until I ran across this factoid: until 1966 it was illegal to grow black currents in the US, and not until 2003 was the ban lifted in states like Nw York and Oregon, all due to a disease associated with the plant.
Thanks to De Long Wine Moment for their post on the tasting term. They go on to discuss that Americans tend to use the term "Cassis", because the US's exposure to the flavor of black current was primarily from Crème de Cassis. The British, on the other hand, use the term "Black Current" being familiar with widely available black current juice.
Perhaps the afore mentioned Napa winery was trying to appeal to a broader set of tourists. My suggestions? Try this "Black Current/Cassis"
February 14, 2011
Understanding Volatile Acidity
One of the things I've noticed about wine makers is that when they taste a wine they tend to evaluate it for faults, not for merits. To me, this seems a little backwards. My philosophy is that a wine, like people can have faults, but still be worthwhile, even enjoyable. Then again, its their job to asses wines in order to produce the best possible product. But every so often I come across a wine that is, in fact, faulty. Most often it's "cork taint", or TCA. But there are other, less common faults in wine. I recently came across a wine that I thought had a touch of Volatile Acidity on the nose. I was a turned off, and sadly I could not recommend what could have been a great wine. Everything else was fetching, but the nose was unpleasant.
So what is VA? Where does it come from? Volatile Acidity is primarily acetic acid, as in vinegar, and ethyl acetate, which smells like nail polish remover or paint thinner. It can develop throughout the wine production process though aerobic yeasts. That means that excess oxygen during fermentation can encourage microbial activity that causes VA. Jamie Goode's site, the Wine Anorak gives a good description of VA's role in a wine:
Volatile acidity (VA) is caused by naturally occurring chemicals in wine, produced by the actions of acetic bacteria. It can be shown that there are measurable levels of VA in all wine. (Emphasis mine) VA is split between two types of chemical – acetic acid and ethyl acetate. Rightly or wrongly, I tend to think of the acetic acid affecting the taste with the sourness or edge to a wine which recalls vinegar, with the ethyl acetate leading to various volatile traits from a mild ‘lift’ to the nose which isn’t directly noticeable, through a boot polish kind of aroma, to nail varnish remover in the worst cases. The fact is that acetic acid and ethyl acetate are formed together and such a distinction may not in fact be so straightforward. But then that’s wine for you – it is more than likely that a complex picture of elements are involved in whether we perceive an issue or not. In the case of VA, it’s not just the level – but also the wine style and type. The richer, bigger wines (Port, for example) can carry greater amounts of VA without detriment. In fact, the sweet dessert wines styles affected by noble rot actually seem to need high levels of VA in order to help form the nose. Without these more volatile elements, the heavy, sugary wine would not give much on the nose at all, and the VA provides an essential ‘lift’ to bring the less volatile elements to our nose.
So what is VA? Where does it come from? Volatile Acidity is primarily acetic acid, as in vinegar, and ethyl acetate, which smells like nail polish remover or paint thinner. It can develop throughout the wine production process though aerobic yeasts. That means that excess oxygen during fermentation can encourage microbial activity that causes VA. Jamie Goode's site, the Wine Anorak gives a good description of VA's role in a wine:
Volatile acidity (VA) is caused by naturally occurring chemicals in wine, produced by the actions of acetic bacteria. It can be shown that there are measurable levels of VA in all wine. (Emphasis mine) VA is split between two types of chemical – acetic acid and ethyl acetate. Rightly or wrongly, I tend to think of the acetic acid affecting the taste with the sourness or edge to a wine which recalls vinegar, with the ethyl acetate leading to various volatile traits from a mild ‘lift’ to the nose which isn’t directly noticeable, through a boot polish kind of aroma, to nail varnish remover in the worst cases. The fact is that acetic acid and ethyl acetate are formed together and such a distinction may not in fact be so straightforward. But then that’s wine for you – it is more than likely that a complex picture of elements are involved in whether we perceive an issue or not. In the case of VA, it’s not just the level – but also the wine style and type. The richer, bigger wines (Port, for example) can carry greater amounts of VA without detriment. In fact, the sweet dessert wines styles affected by noble rot actually seem to need high levels of VA in order to help form the nose. Without these more volatile elements, the heavy, sugary wine would not give much on the nose at all, and the VA provides an essential ‘lift’ to bring the less volatile elements to our nose.
Whats important to note is that acetic acid and ethyl acetate are produced during fermentation and therefore present in all wines. Perception thresholds are different from person to person, and from wine to wine. It is when these elements are in excess, i.e. out of balance with the rest of the wine, that they becomes perceptible and unpleasant. Think of wine as a harmonious, yet complex network of elements, each must be weighted proportionally to the others.
In this light, VA is not a fault, it is an integral part of the wine. Rather, the fault is that the wine is not in balance. The wine I came across suffered from this problem. What I experienced on the palate was a wine that displayed interesting fruit and development, but on the nose had excess VA in proportion to its other aromas.
February 12, 2011
2008 Château de Gaudou Cahors
France does not produce enough Malbec to satisfy the worlds demand, but this Cahors gives Argentina a run for its money. At under ten, this wine over performs; blackberry, dried-blueberry, herbal, tar and earth all on the nose. Very dry in the mouth, but backed with fruit, and nice finish. Very worth picking up several bottles to have around (from Liner & Elsen). It didn't go all that well with my dinner of wonton soup, but I'm thinking it could almost go with guacamole. I dare someone to try it.
Friday at Foster & Dobbs
Last friday at Foster & Dobbs on NE 15th, there was a selection of Casa Bruno Wines poured by Joe Moura. These notes are a little late, but I'm sure the wines are still in stock. Sadly I did not note the prices.
(+) 2007 Felsina Chianti Classico
Great 100% Sangiovese. It's seems rare to find a Chianti with this much honesty. A very direct and straightforward expression of red cherry, flowers and earth - classic! Well worth checking out.
(+) 2007 La Gerla Rosso di Montalcino
I seem to remember this as a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, but on checking for the blend, I found that it was another 100% Sangiovese. Surprising intense fruit nose, with a full bodied structure and hint of bitterness. I'm sure the price refelected its status as not-Brunello, but I preferred this...see below
(-) 2004 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino
Sadly, I was put of but a touch of volotile-acidity upfront on the nose. Underneath was there was complexity and depth, but that first impression lingered. Still, the balance was spot on with a lingering finish. Hesitant to recommend because of possible VA.
(+) 2007 Felsina Chianti Classico
Great 100% Sangiovese. It's seems rare to find a Chianti with this much honesty. A very direct and straightforward expression of red cherry, flowers and earth - classic! Well worth checking out.
(+) 2007 La Gerla Rosso di MontalcinoI seem to remember this as a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, but on checking for the blend, I found that it was another 100% Sangiovese. Surprising intense fruit nose, with a full bodied structure and hint of bitterness. I'm sure the price refelected its status as not-Brunello, but I preferred this...see below
(-) 2004 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino
Sadly, I was put of but a touch of volotile-acidity upfront on the nose. Underneath was there was complexity and depth, but that first impression lingered. Still, the balance was spot on with a lingering finish. Hesitant to recommend because of possible VA.
February 8, 2011
Tapas Bars
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| Léon before the evening rush |
More thoughts about Spain: what I appreciated most about my time in Spain was seeing and taking part in the Spanish food and wine culture. In particular, the tapas bars. I didn't spend too much time in restaurants, and when I did, I tended towards the simple / traditional / inexpensive. But to get my culinary kicks and search for something besides plain table wine, I went to bars.
Tapas bars and restaurants have become very chic in the US over the last few years. From what I've experienced, these tend to follow American dinning standards with Spanish flavors and an attempt at Spanish portions. But the establishments I've been to bear little resemblance in terms of the culture of eating Spain. Specifically, "tapas bars" are really just neighborhood bars, usually known for serving a unique snack along with their drinks. Really, these places are simple hangouts, frequented more for socializing more than to seek culinary treasures.
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| Sherry on tap in Granada |
It used to be that almost anywhere you went in Spain, when you ordered a drink at a bar, it came with tapas, (in the Basque country bar snacks are referred to as pintxos and are not included with the drink). There are several origins stories for this tradition, but they seem to all underscore the association of food with drink. Sadly this tradition is dying out. I heard many stories of bars stopping tapas service when too many customers left their plates untouched. But in places that still have rich bar culture, like Léon, Logroño, and Andalucia, tapas thrives. In places like Nerja, you're often given a choice of which tapas you'd like with your drink, including some amazingly fresh seafood. I found it fun to try to pair my drink choices with the tapas served.
I would love to see bars in the states try this; whenever you order a beer or glass of wine, a small snack is served along side it. I'm not talking about peanuts, chips & salsa or popcorn. Something that actually paired well with the drink, and felt like you were eating food. Could a bar like this survive, doing only one thing, but doing it well, and building in to the cost of a drink? I'm not sure that people would be willing to pay for it. Here in Portland, I find the Happy Hour culture to approximate this. Its certainly encourages us to see food and drink as related, and many establishments have built their reputation on their happy hour alone.
February 3, 2011
Frog's Leap Merlot 2006
(+) Frog's Leap Rutherford Merlot 2006What a pleasant reminder the other night to open up a half bottle of this merlot. Reminder of what? That merlot can be interesting, balanced and comfortingly delicious. Ripe plums dipped in mint chocolate and spiced Bing cherries. Round and fruity, but alive. Recommended.
Frog's Leap was one of my favorite wineries to visit along the Silverado Trail, with a very pleasant tasting room that looks on to a beautiful garden and the vineyards. It was certainly pleasant to sit on the porch, be served a flight of wines, and then walk around the garden and see the effort to maintain biodiversity around the vineyard. From what I've read, the grapes they use are organically grown, and the vineyards are managed without irrigation after flowering (though I'm told they do practice deficit irrigation). Taken as a whole, their wines are serious, offer good value, and represent a commitment to changing the culture of Napa in a positive direction.
Wine purchased at Frog's Leap tasting room.
January 28, 2011
30 Days of Spanish Wine
This past September and October, I accomplished one of my life goals: to walk the Camino de Santiago, from St Jean Pied-de-Port, France, to Santiago de Compostella, Spain. This trail took me through 800 kilometers of Spanish countryside and towns, weaving through some of the great Spanish wine regions. Before leaving, I came across an interesting story on Palate Press be fellow Portlandian Ryan Reichert. It gave me a few ideas of what to expect and look out for, and now that I'm back, and have had time to reflect on the experience I want to share my own experience.
First of all, my wife and I planned to hike for 30 days, which meant we averaged about 18-20 miles each day. We had a few days of easy walking, a few nights in hotels, but mostly we kept disciplined about our distances and stayed in pilgrim hostels each night. Which meant that each night, what was most on our mind were the necessities; getting our packs off our backs, cleaning off the dust and sweat, and replenishing ourselves with food. Wine was of course part of our meals, and though sometimes it was more than just part that, most of it was humble, local and undistinguished.
One of my favorite experience throughout the trip was how much our surroundings changed, and how each region became distinct from the previous as we passed though them. This applied to the wine as well. The first major region we passed though was Navarre. The wines here tended to be more modern, and more homogeneous tasting, round and fruity. During the first few days of hiking, the last thing I wanted to think about was tasting notes on muscle relaxants and sleep aids. There are certainly great Navarre wines out there, but the simple vino tinto served with our pilgrim meals of Sopa de Ajo & Tortilla Espanola were pleasant and welcome. One landmark for pilgrims is the wine fountain of Bodegas Irache (check the webcam), which offers free wine to passing pilgrims to help ease the pain.
On day ten of hiking, we entered into the province of Rioja, staying over night in Logroño. Logroño is the capital of Rioja, and has a very robust food and wine scene. Sadly we misted the fall wine celebration, though a fountain was still died red from the celebration. But we did spend our afternoon and evening wandering the four blocks next to our pension, filled with tapas bars of all kinds. I'll write more on my thoughts about tapas bars and culture in a later post, but this was our introduction, and we were not disappointed. For the equivalent of a dollar, you could get a glass of Rioja joven, and a few more dollars would get you any number of small dishes like Patatas Bravas, or a plate of grilled mushrooms. Most bars offered a selection of wines, including some fantastic reservas and gran reservas. But the simpler, fresh Rioja joven suited the straightforward tapas that were the norm.
After the provence of Rioja, we entered a virtual wine dessert of the Meseta, a high flat land more suited to grain than vines. Still, wine was a staple, and we could find a decent selection of Ribera del Deuro reds. I started to notice that a common aperitif served at bars was sweet vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orange and a spritz of soda.
The province of Léon hosts the Bierzo region, which makes wine from the Mencia grape. I took particularly to these wines because they are fresh, medium bodied wines, not overly tannic, but fairly versatile. I glad to see a few examples of these wines in the Portland market, including a bag in box offering which is an incredible value. Also common in the city of Léon is Prieto Picudo, which was made as both red and rosé. I can't say any were memorable, but worth taking note of in general. Léon also offered some of the best ham and chorizo we tasted on the trip. There are lots of tapas bars spread around the city, each offering their own selection of sausage, cured ham or slow roasted pork.
Santiago itself lies in the province of Galicia, famous for its octopus, its potato and cabbage soup Caldo Gallega, and its Albariño. Rias Baixas is perhaps the only celebrated white wine of Spain aside from Cava. Its typically served in little porcelain cups, and pairs well with Queso Tetilla, a local cows milk cheese, and Membrillo, or quince paté.
The Camino was at its heart a journey of introspection for me. But that introspection was balanced with a camaraderie and fellowship formed with other pilgrims. Perhaps the most memorable evening of the trip was an birthday celebration in Ponferrada. A dozen of us gathered to celebrate the 60th birthday of a women we had just met. We set the table, opened a few bottles, and raised our glasses. Buen provecho & Salud.
First of all, my wife and I planned to hike for 30 days, which meant we averaged about 18-20 miles each day. We had a few days of easy walking, a few nights in hotels, but mostly we kept disciplined about our distances and stayed in pilgrim hostels each night. Which meant that each night, what was most on our mind were the necessities; getting our packs off our backs, cleaning off the dust and sweat, and replenishing ourselves with food. Wine was of course part of our meals, and though sometimes it was more than just part that, most of it was humble, local and undistinguished.
One of my favorite experience throughout the trip was how much our surroundings changed, and how each region became distinct from the previous as we passed though them. This applied to the wine as well. The first major region we passed though was Navarre. The wines here tended to be more modern, and more homogeneous tasting, round and fruity. During the first few days of hiking, the last thing I wanted to think about was tasting notes on muscle relaxants and sleep aids. There are certainly great Navarre wines out there, but the simple vino tinto served with our pilgrim meals of Sopa de Ajo & Tortilla Espanola were pleasant and welcome. One landmark for pilgrims is the wine fountain of Bodegas Irache (check the webcam), which offers free wine to passing pilgrims to help ease the pain.
On day ten of hiking, we entered into the province of Rioja, staying over night in Logroño. Logroño is the capital of Rioja, and has a very robust food and wine scene. Sadly we misted the fall wine celebration, though a fountain was still died red from the celebration. But we did spend our afternoon and evening wandering the four blocks next to our pension, filled with tapas bars of all kinds. I'll write more on my thoughts about tapas bars and culture in a later post, but this was our introduction, and we were not disappointed. For the equivalent of a dollar, you could get a glass of Rioja joven, and a few more dollars would get you any number of small dishes like Patatas Bravas, or a plate of grilled mushrooms. Most bars offered a selection of wines, including some fantastic reservas and gran reservas. But the simpler, fresh Rioja joven suited the straightforward tapas that were the norm.
After the provence of Rioja, we entered a virtual wine dessert of the Meseta, a high flat land more suited to grain than vines. Still, wine was a staple, and we could find a decent selection of Ribera del Deuro reds. I started to notice that a common aperitif served at bars was sweet vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orange and a spritz of soda.
The province of Léon hosts the Bierzo region, which makes wine from the Mencia grape. I took particularly to these wines because they are fresh, medium bodied wines, not overly tannic, but fairly versatile. I glad to see a few examples of these wines in the Portland market, including a bag in box offering which is an incredible value. Also common in the city of Léon is Prieto Picudo, which was made as both red and rosé. I can't say any were memorable, but worth taking note of in general. Léon also offered some of the best ham and chorizo we tasted on the trip. There are lots of tapas bars spread around the city, each offering their own selection of sausage, cured ham or slow roasted pork.Santiago itself lies in the province of Galicia, famous for its octopus, its potato and cabbage soup Caldo Gallega, and its Albariño. Rias Baixas is perhaps the only celebrated white wine of Spain aside from Cava. Its typically served in little porcelain cups, and pairs well with Queso Tetilla, a local cows milk cheese, and Membrillo, or quince paté.
The Camino was at its heart a journey of introspection for me. But that introspection was balanced with a camaraderie and fellowship formed with other pilgrims. Perhaps the most memorable evening of the trip was an birthday celebration in Ponferrada. A dozen of us gathered to celebrate the 60th birthday of a women we had just met. We set the table, opened a few bottles, and raised our glasses. Buen provecho & Salud.
January 25, 2011
Eola Hills Pinot Noir 2009
(-) Eola Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009 $14
I should't complain, because its great to see low priced pinot noir, out there, and $14 is a nice price, especially from Oregon. However, I think there is better PN out there at this price, which is why I wouldn't recommend this. That being said, this wine has a classic pinot profile; bright red fruit, touch of spice and a nice earthy quality. But the intensity was just not there, resulting in an imbalanced wine, with too much alcohol on the nose and no real lingering finnish.
Wine provided by a dinner guest.
I should't complain, because its great to see low priced pinot noir, out there, and $14 is a nice price, especially from Oregon. However, I think there is better PN out there at this price, which is why I wouldn't recommend this. That being said, this wine has a classic pinot profile; bright red fruit, touch of spice and a nice earthy quality. But the intensity was just not there, resulting in an imbalanced wine, with too much alcohol on the nose and no real lingering finnish.
Wine provided by a dinner guest.
January 23, 2011
Saturday Tasting Notes
I stopped in to my local wine shop for their Saturday tasting, which featured new arrivals from France. A nice round up of gems at reasonable prices. I'm glad to see these awesome values, and had a nice time chatting with importer Chad Zimmerman (of Animaux du Vin) about his travels in France.
(+) Guy Bocard Bourgogne Blanc 2008 $21
Beautiful and expressive chardonnay. This wine is falsa marga in reverse: the nose is intense and round with creamy lemon and pear, but the structure is tight and zippy on the palate. Importer Animaux du Vin describes it as Meursault character without the Meursault price. I rarely sing praises of chardonnays (that arn't Blanc de Blanc Champagne), but this one got me excited. Recommended.
(+) Beaurenard Côtes-du-Rhône 2007 $16
Côte-du-Rhône is my comfort wine, since it can offer so much, but I was a touch disappointed. I love the complex herbal nose, with licorice, pepper and earthiness, but it was a bit underwhelming going down. Not that CdR should be about power - and this wine, entirely sourced from within the Rasteau appellation, shows the more elegant side of a wide-ranging appellation. Recommended.
70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault
(+) Château Les Rosiers Bordeaux Rouge 2009 $12
Say what you want about Bordeaux, there are still good wines at god prices out there. And its thanks to importers doing a good job that we have access to them. Not your typical cheap red Bordeaux, this had plenty to think about on the nose, but restrained a structure and moderate alcohol. Young tannins, but totally approachable. Reminded me why I love wine; even the humble bottles can be exciting!
60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Recommended.
(+) Château Haut Bernasse Monbazillac Les Clos 2005 $20
I'd like to say that this wine was perfectly balanced, but the acidity was a touch light. The sweetness, however, was entirely in check. Fragrant honey-nut aromas with that distinct and powerful noble rot nose (what my wife calls "Barbie-face"). Easy drinking and vibrant. Amazing value when you consider the price is for a full 750 mL. Recommended.
80% Semillon, 15% Muscadelle, 5% Sauvignon Blanc
All wines were provided, gratis, by Great Wine Buys and Animaux du Vins, as part of the regular weekend tasting.
(+) Guy Bocard Bourgogne Blanc 2008 $21
Beautiful and expressive chardonnay. This wine is falsa marga in reverse: the nose is intense and round with creamy lemon and pear, but the structure is tight and zippy on the palate. Importer Animaux du Vin describes it as Meursault character without the Meursault price. I rarely sing praises of chardonnays (that arn't Blanc de Blanc Champagne), but this one got me excited. Recommended.
(+) Beaurenard Côtes-du-Rhône 2007 $16
Côte-du-Rhône is my comfort wine, since it can offer so much, but I was a touch disappointed. I love the complex herbal nose, with licorice, pepper and earthiness, but it was a bit underwhelming going down. Not that CdR should be about power - and this wine, entirely sourced from within the Rasteau appellation, shows the more elegant side of a wide-ranging appellation. Recommended.
70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault
(+) Château Les Rosiers Bordeaux Rouge 2009 $12
Say what you want about Bordeaux, there are still good wines at god prices out there. And its thanks to importers doing a good job that we have access to them. Not your typical cheap red Bordeaux, this had plenty to think about on the nose, but restrained a structure and moderate alcohol. Young tannins, but totally approachable. Reminded me why I love wine; even the humble bottles can be exciting!
60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Recommended.
(+) Château Haut Bernasse Monbazillac Les Clos 2005 $20
I'd like to say that this wine was perfectly balanced, but the acidity was a touch light. The sweetness, however, was entirely in check. Fragrant honey-nut aromas with that distinct and powerful noble rot nose (what my wife calls "Barbie-face"). Easy drinking and vibrant. Amazing value when you consider the price is for a full 750 mL. Recommended.
80% Semillon, 15% Muscadelle, 5% Sauvignon Blanc
All wines were provided, gratis, by Great Wine Buys and Animaux du Vins, as part of the regular weekend tasting.
January 22, 2011
I've Moved!
After a long hiatus from blogging, I've made a few changes. I've decided to migrate my former blog, Symposia, from Wordpress to Blogger, for a number of reasons; hopefully you'll find the new format as friendly as I do. The Wordpress site will still be up, but I wont be posting to it. If I did my job correctly all of the content has been preserved, and I hope to be building on this.
Obviously this decision has taken a bit of time for me, not in the least because of all the changes in my life. Since my last post, I left my job, moved cities and walked across Spain, and have begun the arduous task of finding a job in Portland.
On the flip side, learning more about the Portland wine market and the Willamette Valley wineries is exciting, and I'm hoping to start a new tasting group soon. All of this should be more than enough inspiration.
Obviously this decision has taken a bit of time for me, not in the least because of all the changes in my life. Since my last post, I left my job, moved cities and walked across Spain, and have begun the arduous task of finding a job in Portland.
On the flip side, learning more about the Portland wine market and the Willamette Valley wineries is exciting, and I'm hoping to start a new tasting group soon. All of this should be more than enough inspiration.
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